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A Heavily Scaled AutoPilot Salt Cell If your AutoPilot salt system is showing messages like “Check/Clean Cell,” “Low Amps,” or “Open Cell Error,” there’s a chance calcium scale is the cause. This is one of the most common issues we help homeowners & even some industry pros troubleshoot, and one of the most misunderstood. A scaling salt cell does not indicate that your AutoPilot salt cell needs to be replaced. Manufacturers do not cover damaged caused to cells from scale build up under their warranty policies so prevention is important. The good news is that, the chemistry that is important to your salt cell is also important to other elements of your pool as well. So if you're seeing a scaled cell it's just the most visible indicator that other elements are also being affected.  A Moderatley Scaled AutoPilot Salt Cell What Is Calcium Scale in a Salt Cell? Calcium scale is a hard, white, crusty buildup that forms on the metal blades (plates) inside your salt cell. It happens when calcium in your pool water falls out of solution and sticks to the cell blades, especially under certain water conditions. When this buildup forms, it acts like insulation on the blades and can: Reduce chlorine production Trigger system error messages Restrict electrical flow (low amps) Lead to premature cell wear if left untreated Why Salt Cells Are Prone to Scaling Salt cells naturally create an environment where scaling is more likely to occur. As your AutoPilot system produces chlorine, it also creates a localized high pH environment inside the cell, even if your pool water tests normal. That means: 👉 The pH inside the cell is often higher than what you measure in the pool And higher pH = higher likelihood of calcium coming out of solution and forming scale. The #1 Cause of Salt Cell Scaling: High pH From real-world troubleshooting, the majority of scaling issues come down to one thing: pH running too high. Industry guidelines say: pH: 7.2 – 7.8 But here’s what most people don’t realize: 👉 The closer your pH is to 7.8, the more likely scale will form. When your pH is above 7.8 it's almost certain you will see heavy and aggressive scaling. Ideal Range for Salt Pools: Best range: 7.4 – 7.6 If scaling persists: 7.2 – 7.4 Because the cell itself raises pH internally, keeping your pool on the lower end helps offset that effect. Other Factors That Contribute to Scaling While pH is the biggest driver, other conditions can make scaling worse: 1. High Calcium Hardness Ideal range: 200 – 400 ppm High calcium = more material available to form scale 👉 Common in areas like California and Arizona 2. High Alkalinity Ideal range: 80 – 120 ppm High alkalinity can cause pH to rise more quickly and become unstable 3. Heat Warmer water causes calcium to come out of solution faster Common scenarios: Heated pools/spas Salt cell installed downstream of a heater A Common Myth: “My Cell Scales, So It Must Be Bad” This is one of the biggest misconceptions we see. 👉 A scaling cell does NOT mean the cell is needs to be replaced In fact: A brand new cell can scale in 1–2 days under the right conditions Replacing the cell without fixing water chemistry will result in the same issue Damaged Blade Caused by Heavy Scale Buildup How Scaling Damages a Salt Cell Over Time Scaling isn’t just a surface issue, it will shorten the life of your cell. Heavy or repeated buildup can: Damage the coating on the blades Reduce efficiency permanently In severe cases, erode the metal plates Cause overheating at the cell cord connection which can cause damage to both the cell and cord This type of damage is considered chemical/environmental, not a manufacturing defect.  When Should You Clean a Salt Cell? Here’s the correct approach: 👉 Only clean the cell if scale is visibly present If the blades look clean: Do NOT acid wash the cell How to Clean an AutoPilot Salt Cell (If Needed) If scale is present, a proper cleaning is required. Cleaning Solution: 4 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid ⚠️ Always: Add acid to water (never the reverse) Use proper safety precautions (gloves, eye protection) The Best Way to Prevent Scaling Prevention is always better than cleaning. Here’s what we recommend: 1. Keep pH in Check Target: 7.4 – 7.6 Lower (7.2-7.4) if scaling is recurring 2. Monitor Calcium Hardness Keep within 200 – 400 ppm If high, compensate with lower pH 3. Control Alkalinity Keep within 80 – 120 ppm 4. Be Aware of Heat Scaling increases in hot water conditions Pay extra attention if using a heater or spa mode Quick Diagnostic Checklist If you’re experiencing issues, run through this: Are you seeing “Check/Clean Cell” or “Low Amps”? Is chlorine production lower than expected? Have you visually inspected the cell for buildup? Is your pH consistently above 7.6? 👉 If scale is present, clean the cell👉 If scale is not present, the issue may be elsewhere & we can help you troubleshoot that as well Final Takeaway A scaled salt is not a failed salt cell, they’re water chemistry problems showing up at the cell. If scaling keeps happening: Don’t replace the cell first Fix the underlying chemistry Doing so will: Restore performance Extend cell life Prevent unnecessary replacements Prevent unnecessary replacements Need Help Troubleshooting? If you’re unsure whether your salt cell needs cleaning or replacement, our team is happy to help. We work with AutoPilot systems every day and can help you pinpoint the issue quickly. Please use our AutoPilot Tech Support & Troubleshooting form for free support. 

When to Clean Your CellIn most cases you should inspect you cell for build up every 3 months. However certain water conditions can cause inspection to be down in much smaller intervals. What causes a “dirty” cell?In-balanced water chemistry and certain conditions can cause heavier scale build up that exceeds the self-cleaning capability of the AutoPilot Pool Pilot controller. What is a “dirty” cell?A “dirty” cell white flaky or crusty build-up found on the blades of the cell. Manual Cell Cleaning NEVER use any sharp or metallic objects to remove scale. Scraping or scratching the titanium blade’s edge or surface will cause damage to the cell which will lead to premature failure of the cell and will void your manufacturer’s warranty. With the cell removed use a high-pressure hose nozzle to spray off as much loose scale and debris as possible. Any remaining calcium can be treated with a mixture of one (1) part Muriatic Acid into four (4) parts water. When it is necessary to clean the cell in your system please follow these steps; Turn off circulation pump. Loosen unions as indicated on the cell manifold. Remove the cell and place a cap or plug at one end of the cell (AutoPilot Cell Plug Kit PN# PLA0113) Once capped, fill the cell with water about 2-inches from the top of the cell blades. Fill the rest of the cell with Muriatic Acid. This results in a 1 to 4 solution. Always make sure to add acid to water and not the other way around. (Use gloves and eye protection when handling harsh chemicals). Let the solution sit inside the cell for 20 minutes. To dispose of the acid solution it is ok to pour into your pool water. Rinse the cell with fresh water and dry off the cell terminals before reattaching the cell cord. Install the cell with cell terminals pointing up, as in the diagram below. Take a water sample to your local pool store and have it tested for the Saturation index. Adjust your water chemistry as needed.

“Cell inspect due” displayed on your AutoPilot Pool Pilot controller is not actually an error message. Instead, this is an advisory message serving as a reminder to inspect the cell to ensure it is clean. The Pool Pilot will continue to produce chlorine as normal when this message is displayed. Press the “SELECT” button to clear this message.

  Safety First WARNING: It is EXTREMELY important that the power is completely turned OFF at the circuit breaker to the AutoPilot Pool Pilot controller BEFORE attempting to remove the cover. Working with live electrical components can be fatal. Step-by-Step Video Guide In this video, we demonstrate the proper technique for removing the cover from an AutoPilot Pool Pilot Digital or Soft Touch controller without damaging the internal ribbon cables or the plastic housing. Quick Summary of Steps Turn the Power Off: Ensure the breaker is off. Locate the Screws: There are 4 black thumb screws (2 on the left and 2 on the right) located on the sides of the cover. Loosen, Don't Remove: You generally only need to loosen these screws to release the faceplate. Careful with the Cables: Once the cover is loose, tilt it forward slowly. The display board is attached to the main power board via a delicate cable harness. There is also a connection for the fans. Do not pull the cover away quickly.

Service Light Decoding (Red Flashes) Signal Meaning Chlorine Status Action Single Flash No Flow Detected OFF The unit believes that there is not sufficient water flow to the sensor to activate the salt cell.Is what flow returning to the pool as normal?Is the pump on? For variable speed pumps try increasing the water flow.Check and clean the manifold strainer screen on the AutoPilot plumbing manifold for debris. Double Flash or  TripleFlash System Warning Possibly ON, but with Diminished Output The unit is detecting low amps. Check the salt cell for any visible build up and clean if needed.If the cleaning the cell doesn't resolve the issue, run the testing instructions below and contact SaltPoolGuys.com support with the results. Quadruple Flash Water Temperature Issue Possibly ON, but with Diminished Output Contact SaltPoolGuy.com support for troubleshooting assistance. Salt Level Indicators Low Salt Light: Salt is below 2400 ppm. Adjust salt to 3000 ppm for optimal performance. Manually test the salt at a pool store or with test strips before proceeding.  Add Salt Light: Salt is below 2000 ppm. The unit has stopped producing chlorine until salt is added. Manually test the salt at a pool store or with test strips before proceeding.  Step-by-Step: How to Run a Diagnostic Test If you have a Double or Triple red flash, our technicians at SaltPoolGuys.com need specific data to help you. Follow these steps to enter Diagnostic Mode: Activate Boost: Press the Boost button and wait 60 seconds for the system to ramp up. Enter Test Mode: Press and hold BOTH the Up and Down arrows for 5 seconds until the output lights go out. Read the Flashes: The lights will now flash in a specific sequence to give you four values. Write these down. How to read the values: 1st Value (Salt): 2nd light flashes (1000s) / 3rd light flashes (100s). Example: 2 flashes / 8 flashes = 2,800 PPM. 2nd Value (Temp): Top light (100s) / 2nd light (10s) / 3rd light (1s). Example: 8 flashes / 6 flashes = 86°F. 3rd Value (Voltage): 2nd light (10s) / 3rd light (1s). Example: 2 flashes / 8 flashes = 28 Volts. 4th Value (Amps): 2nd light (1s) / 3rd light (0.1s). Example: 5 flashes / 5 flashes = 5.5 Amps.

The AutoPilot Pool Pilot Digital DIG-220 features an optional internal pump relay that allows the controller to act as your pool's digital time clock. This eliminates the need for a separate external timer and synchronizes your chlorine production perfectly with your pump's runtime. How the Relay Works with Your Pump The relay behaves differently depending on the type of pump you have installed: Single-Speed Pumps: The DIG-220 can be programmed for 1 or 2 cycles per day. For example, you can set a single 12-hour block (7 am–7 pm) or two separate blocks (7 am–12 pm and 3 pm–10 pm). Two-Speed Pumps: The controller toggles between High and Low speeds. When the timer signals "On," the pump runs on high; when it signals "Off," the pump drops to low speed. In this configuration, the pump never completely powers down. Variable Speed Pumps: Since VS pumps have their own integrated computers, they require constant power. The AutoPilot relay is not compatible and not necessary for these models. Some customers do choose to use this feature with variable speed pumps however we advise against it as the variable speed pump should be directly wired from the breaker and rely on its own controls. Step-by-Step: Programming the Relay By factory default, the DIG-220 is set to "External Timer." Follow these steps to "tell" the controller it is now in charge of your pump: Enter the Installer Menu: Press MENU, scroll to INSTALLER MENU, then PRESS AND HOLD SELECT for 15 seconds. Configure Pump Type: Scroll to PUMP CONTROL. Change the setting from "External Timer" to either One-Speed or Two-Speed. Press SELECT to save. Set Your Schedule: Scroll to PUMP PROGRAM 1. Follow the prompts to set your On and Off times. You can optionally set a second cycle in PUMP PROGRAM 2. Sync the Clock: Go to SET TIME OF DAY and ensure the internal clock matches your current local time. Exit: Scroll to EXIT MENU and press SELECT.

We receive inquiries from customers on a consistent basis reporting that their pool has little to no chlorine. In many of these cases there is not a equipment related issue at play instead it could be a water chemistry issue even when a water test shows well-balanced normal water conditions. If your Pool Pilot is showing an error code you will want to refer to our equipment troubleshooting guide or contact our technical support. There are several situations in which you may not be able to read a chlorine level in the pool, yet there are no error displays on the AutoPilot. Some are Operational and some are from Chemical Reactions. A quick test is to place the units in BOOST mode, wait 30 seconds, loosen the lower cell union, and then take a water sample after the cell. Test for chlorine, which should yield a higher level than what’s in the pool. Chlorine Demand Chlorine demand is the amount of chlorine needed to treat all of the contaminants in pool water. Some pools have extremely high chlorine demand while others have normal or even low chlorine demand. You could have a perfectly working salt chlorine generator running at peak efficiency combined with a increased or high chlorine demand and still yield little to no chlorine. Sunlight (UV) exposure, inclement weather, slides, pool parties and water features are all factors that can cause increased chlorine demand. Cell Too SmallIf the salt cell being used is undersized for your pool and its chlorine demand your Pool Pilot system will not be able to create enough chlorine to meet the demand. Borderline sizing, that is, if you have a 20,000 gallon pool, do not install and 20,000 gallon rated cell, will probably not provide enough chlorine. Contact us to learn if your Pool Pilot controller can accommodate a larger sized cell. Pump Run Time InsufficientSimilar to undersized cells, you must run the pump long enough to be able to generate sufficient levels of chlorine daily. Upsizing the cell will allow you to lower your pump run time. StabilizerStabilizer is the most common chlorine demand issue that we deal with. Maintaining proper stabilizer levels ensures that your chlorine is protected from UV rays of the sun. Not maintaining proper stabilizer levels ensures that the sun will rapidly degrade the chlorine being produced by your salt pool chlorine generator. For residential pools the stabilizer level should be maintained at 60 – 80 ppm. Even at a median 30 – 40 ppm your pool will have somewhat rapid chlorine loss especially during the peak of summer. PhosphatesThe industry is still learning about phosphates and at what points they can cause issues with chlorine levels. Ideally you will have a phosphate level of 0 ppb. When troubleshooting chlorine demand issues we recommend treating any phosphate level about xxx ppb. Phosphates serve as a food source for algae. Phosphates are introduced to pool water by lawn fertilizer, laundry detergents, some household cleaning bleaches & tile/vinyl cleaning agents. Some pool owners living near agricultural areas or golf courses have had phosphate levels via airborne sources. A chemical treatment is needed to eliminate phosphates when found in pool water. Sodium BromideUnfountantley another common issue that can create high chlorine demand is the something that pool stores will sometimes sell to pool owners to fix algae problems. Many pool stores market “yellow” or “mustard” algae removal products containing SODIUM BROMIDE. Although the clerk at the pool store or even the package the treatment comes in advertises it as being “salt pool compatible” it can cause extreme issues in relation to your chlorine levels. Every year we troubleshoot dozens of pools with issues caused by the addition of sodium bromide. To remedy the addition of sodium bromide:Turn the AutoPilot Pool Pilot controller down to 0% output. Add Sodium Hypochlorite manually, daily, to maintain 5 ppm or higher until you’re able to maintain a chlorine residual overnight. Determine this by testing your chlorine at night and again in the morning. Expect the chlorine level to be lower in the morning, due to the reaction of the sodium bromide. Add your chlorine after your morning test. Once you’re able to maintain the chlorine residual, you can turn the AutoPilot back on. Usage (“Bather Load”)For residential pools the usage (known in the industry as “bather load”) is a less common issue in relation to chlorine demand although it is certainly something to take in to consideration. On commercial and public pools however it is one of the most important things to factor when looking at chlorine demand. An active adult swimmer can lose a pint or more of perspiration in a hours time. Sunny conditions Hot water Nitrates Sodium bromide Other contaminants

What is a generic or aftermarket replacement cell? A generic or aftermarket cell is a replacement cell made by a company other than the original manufacturer. The original manufacturer is AquaCal AutoPilot (“AutoPilot Systems”). What are the advantages/disadvantages of generic/aftermarket replacement cells? Value?: The perceived advantage of generic/aftermarket replacement cells is that the customer will save money as compared to buying the original manufacturer’s equipment. However a quick search around the web will show that aftermarket cells often last years less than the original cells. Also with our deep discounting and rebate programs we’ll usually even beat the cost of most generic/aftermarket cells. Warranty: Unfortunately unscrupulous marketers of the generic/aftermarket cells offer warranties that appear to good to be true. It turns out that past history will show that these warranties are too good to be true in most cases. One of the largest distributors of generic/aftermarket cells has over 150 complaints with the Better Business Bureau as of this writing. Their rating with the BBB is “F”. We have seen some sellers promote 3, 4 and even 5 year warranties. Make sure you read the fine print and ask for the name of the company that actually back ups the warranty. Do you research! We’ve actually done it for you — look below: Why doesn’t SaltPoolGuys.com sell generic/aftermarket cells? Our Reputation: We have a stellar reputation as an authorized AutoPilot Pool Pilot dealer. There are hundreds of customer reviews around our website and independent third party websites pertaining to our company. Simply put our ownership will not sell our reputation or customers to make a quick buck selling inferior products. Liability: Generic/aftermarket cells could pose serious safety threats. For legal and liability reasons we refuse to put our business and customer’s safety in jeopardy.

An exclusive feature of AutoPilot Pool Pilot salt pool chlorine generators is temperature compensation. This feature automatically adjusts the output % setting of your Pool Pilot controller based upon the changes in seasonal water temperatures. This exclusive and very useful feature conveniently compensates for spring time water temperature increases (more purifier is needed to avoid under chlorination and algae growth) and cooler fall/winter water temperature decreases (less purifier is need to avoid over chlorination and unnecessary cell usage). The purpose of this feature is to aid in proper chlorine production throughout the year with little or no adjustment needed by the pool operator. You will notice that the purifier output % setting will automatically adjust from your set point. As the temperature fluctuates every 5 degrees higher or lower, the output will adjust 25% of the setting, and either increase or decrease the output cycle automatically. At certain low water temperature points, the maximum purifier % can not be adjusted until the water temperature once again increases. At 55 F the unit goes to a 1% fixed output. This cold water temperature block out is designed to conserve cell life in a period of time when chlorine production is not typically needed. In cold water conditions if chlorine production is needed beyond the 1% fixed output boost mode can be activated for a 24 or 72 hour period with chlorine production at 100% during this time period. Boost mode can be deactivated manually during this time by once again pressing the boost button if a full boost cycle is not required.

As the leading seller of AutoPilot Pool Pilot replacement cells we got a lot of questions regarding AutoPilot Pool Pilot cell cords and cables. The #1 question we receive is “Why do I need to replace the cord when replacing the cell?”. Often time customers report that their cord is in “good shape” and sometimes they even report testing it.  The manufacturer of Pool Pilot salt cells, AutoPilot, has always stipulated that whenever a cell is replaced the cord is also to be replaced. Not doing so can affect the manufacturer’s warranty.  We see premature failure of AutoPilot Pool Pilot salt cells due to damage from “fatigued”, “worn” and corroded cords. When this occurs the connection between the cord terminals and the silver pins on the outside of the salt cell will begin to overheat. Next, the rubber of the cord gets hot. When this happens of course the cord is no longer usable. But it usually also damages the silver pins on the outside of the cell requiring a replacement of both the cord and cell. How does replacing or not replacing the AutoPilot Pool Pilot cell cord affect my warranty?  When a customer purchases an AutoPilot Pool Pilot salt cell from an authorized dealer (SaltPoolGuys.com is an authorized AutoPilot Pool Pilot dealer) the manufacturer covers manufacturer’s defects and damage caused by cords if a new authentic AutoPilot Pool Pilot cell cord is purchased with the new salt cell. For residential applications the warranty period is 2 years while for commercial applications the warranty period is 1 year.  While it is not a rampant issue the leading cause of our warranty claims is due to issues with the cell cord making it very important to replace the cell cord when replacing the cell. AutoPilot Pool Pilot’s residential written warranty policy reads as follows: “Cell cords must be replaced when cell is replaced in order to prevent voiding product warranty. Cell cords replaced at the time of cell replacement will receive a two year parts only warranty.“. Beware of generic or aftermarket cell cords. Some sellers have been known to sell generic, aftermarket or even counterfeit cell cords. These cords do NOT meet the specs of AutoPilot Pool Pilot. Not only can this lead to technical issues it can also be dangerous. Rest assured that SaltPoolGuys.com does NOT sell any generic, aftermarket or counterfeit AutoPilot Pool Pilot cords. Before ordering a cell cord please be sure to read our cell cord reference guide to make sure you are ordering the correct cord for your unit. Cell cords are NOT cell specific but they are controller/power supply specific.

This article applies to the vast majority of AutoPilot Pool Pilot installations. It will not apply if ORP automation is being used to control the chlorine production of the AutoPilot Pool Pilot salt system.  SaltPoolGuys.com is an authorized dealer of AutoPilot Pool Pilot salt systems. We offer a full selection of AutoPilot Pool Pilot parts & cells along with complete systems.  Adjusting the Purifier PercentageUse the “UP” and “DOWN” arrows to adjust the purifier output percentage (can be adjusted from 0-100%). Once you’ve reached your desired purifier percentage setting you then press the “SELECT” button to lock the reading in. Once you have set the desired purifier level the temperature compensation feature will take over until the purifier is adjusted manually once again (see “Temperature Compensation” below for more details.) What is the purifier percentage?When you are adjusting the purifier percentage of your AutoPilot Pool Pilot you are setting how often the cell is powered to produce chlorine. The cell has active and inactive or idle periods of time. Examples based on an 8-hour pump run time: @ 25% purifier chlorine will be produced for 2 hours and the cell will idle for 6 hours @ 50% purifier chlorine will be produced for 4 hours and the cell will idle for 4 hours @ 100% purifier chlorine will be produced for 8 hours and the cell will idle for 0 hours As you can see the higher the purifier percentage setting the more chlorine will be produced. It is important to remember that pump run time also affects the amount of chlorine being produced. In the above example, we used an 8-hour pump run time. Using the 50% purifier example see the list below for examples of how pump run time will affect chlorine production: @ 50% purifier and an 8-hour pump run time chlorine will be produced for 4 hours and the cell will idle for 4 hours @ 50% purifier and a 12-hour pump run time chlorine will be produced for 6 hours and the cell will idle for 6 hours @ 50% purifier and a 24-hour pump run time chlorine will be produced for 24 hours and the cell will idle for 0 hours As you can see in the above examples it is extremely important to take pump run time into consideration when choosing the ideal starting purifier percentage as increases or decreases in the pump run time provides more or less of a chance for the unit to produce chlorine within the same purifier percentage setting. Ideal Purifier PercentageWith a properly balanced pool and at least an 8-hour per day pump run time, the manufacturer recommends starting the purifier percentage at 50%. If your pump run time greatly exceeds 8 hours per day you’ll want to curb down the 50% level to prevent overwearing of the cell. When learning your ideal purifier % level you should regularly check the chlorine level and adjust as need be. With that said your proper output setting will vary based upon several factors including time of year, stabilizer level, pool size, location, exposure to sunlight, number of users, vegetation around the pool, water balance conditions and pump run time. Temperature CompensationAutoPilot Pool Pilot controllers feature a temperature compensation system. This technology allows the Pool Pilot to automatically make fine output adjustments as the water temperature changes. The tri-sensor works in conjunction with the chlorine % feature to automatically adjust chlorine output based upon changes in water temperature. The idea behind this feature is that less chlorine is needed in cooler water conditions and as the water warms more chlorine is needed to properly maintain the pool. This unique and exclusive feature really sets AutoPilot Pool Pilot salt chlorine generators apart from the rest of the industry. It helps to conserve the life of the cell in cooler conditions and keep your pool sparkling and safe in warmer conditions. Cold Water Lockout: As the water temperature drops below 65F, the AutoPilot Pool Pilot controller will activate a high chlorine percent lockout, and may not allow chlorine adjustments up to 100%. The feature prevents the AutoPilot Pool Pilot controller from over-driving the salt cell under colder temperatures, thus preventing premature salt cell wear. At 55F or colder water temperatures, the controller will adjust to a fixed 1% output, this preventing over-chlorination and premature salt cell failure. Cold Water ConditionsWhen the water temperature drops below 65°F, the Pool Pilot controller will activate a high purifier lockout. With the water temperature at these levels, you may not be able to adjust the purifier level up to 100%. At 55°F or colder water temperatures, the controller will adjust to a fixed 1% output and will not allow for the purifier level to be raised manually. This helpful feature prevents the controller from overworking the cell under colder temperatures, preventing premature cell wear. Boost ModeBoost mode sets the purifier level to 100% for a specified period of time. Standard boost mode runs for a 24-hour duration while super boost mode runs for 72 hours. Note: If boost mode is activated on a Pool Pilot Digital DIG-220 controller which is configured to control a one-speed pump the pump will continue to run past the its standard shut off time until the boost cycle duration is complete. To activate boost: Press “BOOST” button once. To activate super boost: Press & hold “BOOST” button for 8 seconds. To deactivate boost: Press “BOOST” a second time.

Freeze protection is a feature included with AutoPilot Pool Pilot Digital DIG-220 and AutoPilot Pool Pilot Digital 75003 control units. The feature will turn the pool pump on when water drops below 40°F if the Pool Pilot control is properly configured to control the pool pump. This feature is for one-speed pool pumps and does not apply to two-speed or variable speed pool pumps. This feature can reduce the possibility of freeze damage to the pump, filter, and pipes in milder climates where freezing weather is not typically expected. There is no warranty or guarantee of this feature. It is still always very important to take any and all precautions to ensure that freeze damage does not occur. The Pool Pilot freeze protection feature will NOT work properly unless all of the following conditions are met: The Pool Pilot must be powered continuously. An external switch or timer should not be used to turn off the Pool Pilot power during the freezing weather. The Pool Pilot must control the power to the circulation pump. DIG-220 Models: The Pool Pilot “Pump Control” must be programmed for one-speed pump. When the tri-sensor indicates that the water temperature is below 38°F, the control unit will override the normal timed program cycle and run the pump 30 minutes minimum or continuously while the water temperature is below 38°F. 75003 Models: The Pool Pilot “Set Relay 1” must be programmed for one-speed pump and the circulation pump must be wired to relay 1. When the Tri-sensor indicates that water temperature is below 38°F, the control unit will override the normal timed program cycle and run the pump 30 minutes minimum or continuously while the water temperature is below 38°F. The Pool Pilot uses a temperature sensor located in the AutoPilot Pool Pilot tri-sensor assembly to determine water temperature. If the AutoPilot Pool Pilot tri-sensor is located so that it cannot accurately detect the cold water, then the freeze protection becomes ineffective. (For example, if the AutoPilot Pool Pilot tri-sensor is located inside a protected or warm location and the other pool components are located in an unprotected area, the other pool components could freeze before the tri-sensor detects the cold water.)

This is a question that we’re asked quite often. It is also a question that most industry professionals don’t quite have an accurate answer to. We’ll help clear it up in this article. There is no shelf life to salt cells. Most of us are familiar the term shelf life when it comes to the milk in our refrigerator or spare batteries in our junk drawer. The good news about salt cells is that there is no shelf life. You could place a new salt cell in your garage today and it will be just as good 10 years later. There is no set amount of time a cell will last. This is a common misconception even among pool service techs. A cell doesn’t last a set amount of hours. Sure you may be to find an average amount of time that a cell lasts but factors can alter this average greatly. Is it an OEM or generic cell? An OEM cell means that the original equipment manufacturer made the cell. In this case, the cell would be manufactured by AutoPilot Pool Pilot. While a generic cell is made by a 3rd party company not affiliated with AutoPilot Pool Pilot. A recent industry study showed that an OEM cell outlasted a generic cell by 120% life! That’s right, the OEM cell outperformed a generic cell lifespan by 120%. So for the sake of this article, we’re strictly talking about cells manufactured directly by AutoPilot Pool Pilot and not any sort of generic product. Alright, so we’ve learned that we don’t measure cell life in time. So just how do we measure the life of an AutoPilot Pool Pilot salt cell? Cell life is measured in the amount of chlorine the cell can produce over the life of the cell. The AutoPilot Pool Pilot PPC1 cell will produce the equivalent of 200 lbs. of pure gas chlorine in its lifespan. The AutoPilot Pool Pilot PPC3 cell will produce the equivalent of 300 lbs. of pure gas chlorine in its lifespan. The AutoPilot Pool Pilot PPC4 cell will produce the equivalent of 575 lbs. of pure gas chlorine it is lifespan. The AutoPilot Pool Pilot PPC5 cell will produce the equivalent of 1,000 lbs. of pure gas chlorine in its lifespan. 100 lbs. of pure gas chlorine equals: 100 gallons of liquid chlorine 112 lbs. of trichlor chlorine tablets 150 lbs. of cal hypo chlorine    So what affects how long a cell will last? Take a look at our “What affects the life of my AutoPilot Pool Pilot salt cell?” article for more details on this.